Today’s post is an inverted nose pleat mask sewing tutorial. This tutorial is curtesy of the wonderful tried and true directions from my mom. My mom is a very skilled quilter that has turned into a mask making machine during the pandemic. As I mentioned in the last post, she’s put her quilting on the back burner in the last year and instead supplied masks to family, friends, and coworkers to help keep people safe and healthy. Over the months she’s honed in on patterns, fitment, and materials and this tutorial shows her engineered and optimized methodology.
Why the inverted pleat mask design?
In short, the inverted nose pleat masks are comfy, seal well, and utilize double layers of high quality cotton with a layer of non-woven interfacing. The inverted pleat goes over your nose so it also seals better than the traditional rectangular pleated mask. Most importantly, the fusible interface is “non-woven,” which provides a built-in barrier for small particles. Outside of an N95, this is probably the closest a homemade mask will get, and passes the candle test with flying colors.
In today’s post, we’ll be making some Star Wars masks using the inverted pleat method. I got this fabric from JoAnn’s. It’s a small pattern, which is important in mask fabric. Another factor when selecting fabric is to pick a high tread count cotton. Quilt stores will have the highest quality cottons. I didn’t list the fabric amounts in the materials list because it may depend on your pattern direction.
Materials & Supplies
- After prewashing and ironing your fabric, cut the following:
Front: 10.25” width x 8” height
Lining: 7.5” width x 8” height
Interfacing: 7.5” width x 8” height
2. Fuse interfacing to lining.
3. Right sides together, center the front fabric to the lining. (About 1 3/8 from each end of the main fabric)
4. Sew 1/4” seams on the top and bottom, turn right side out, and press.
5. Fold in 1” to form the nose pleat.
6. Top stitch the top of the nose pleat and the bottom of the mask.
7. Form the other pleats by folding the mask in half wrong sides together and press. Then open it up and press the bottom to the middle crease, and the top to the middle crease.
8. Turn it right side up, make the pleats, press and clip.
9. Sew 1/4” seams on each raw edge.
10. Fold in to make casings for the elastic. I had to put my walking foot on to get through the thickness of this fold with the pleats so keep that in mind if you have a machine with less clearance. Remember to backstitch on this one as well.
11. Put elastic in casings and tie to make the ear loops. My elastic was about 6″ long for each piece, but I have a small head so you may need more or less.
Here’s the final mask, ready for spring wear! I made 12 at one time and there are many steps that you can daisy chain along. I hope you enjoyed this inverted nose pleat mask sewing tutorial. Let’s hope our mask wearing days will come to a close soon, but until then, enjoy some fashionable masks and stay healthy.
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